Nazir Sabir Expeditions

Leaders in Adventure Tourism

Broad Peak (8047m)

Range: Karakoram

Altitude: 8047m

Zone: Permitted

Duration: 50 Days

Best Time: Mid May - End August

Broad Peak is named for the immense bulk and because of its breadth at the top and its local name is 'Falchan Kangri'. It has a strong presence in its environs neighboring K2.

Broad Peak is one of the 8000m peaks which towers above Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum Range dominating the entire scenario ahead of Baltoro Glacier. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks. The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

The route involves climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach CII at around 6400m. A final camp is placed at 7400m from where a summit bid is made.

The climbing will not be extremely steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have its own unique flavor.

There have been several winter expeditions to Broad Peak since 1987/88 when Andrzej Zawada, a noted Polish climber, considered a pioneer of winter climbing in high mountain regions led the first. In the winter of 1987/88 he organized and led the first International Winter Expedition to K2 with climbers from Poland, Canada, and Great Britain. When they failed to achieve their objective on K2, his team members Aleksander Lwow and Maciej Berbeka attempted Broad Peak and they only reached the Fore Peak. None of the five 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan have been climbed in the winter this far.

The new route up the South West Face was climbed by Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov in Alpine style in July 2005. Valery Babanov and his partner Victor Afanasiev climbed Broad Peak central pillar up the West Face via a variation route in alpine style in 2008.

After a long jeep drive up the picturesque Shigar Valley to Askole the trek to base camp and each night we camp out as we walk up the valley with our crew providing entertainment and colour to the otherwise wild and barren countryside and reach the base camp in eight days with one or two days rest en-route.

Our next camp is Paiyu, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro glacier. Then the route to Broad Peak follows the opposite (true left) side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 3 days to reach the base camp.

Trip Itinerary:

Day 01 Islamabad

Arrive Islamabad.

Day 02 Islamabad

Welcome reception.

Day 03 Skardu/Chilas

Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).

Day 04 Chilas/Skardu

Day free at Skardu. If you are driving, complete road journey (07-08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route have good views of Nanga Parbat (8125m).

Day 05 Askole (3000m)

By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs).

Day 06-11 Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp.

Day 12-41 30 days for acclimatization and climbing.

Day 42-47 Trek back to Askole or Hushe via Gondogoro La and drive to Skardu.

Day 48 Islamabad/Chilas

Fly to Islamabad. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas.

Day 49 Islamabad

Leisure day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to Islamabad.

Day 50 Islamabad

Farewell meet. Transfer to airport for your return flight home.

Services (Click to View)

Included:

Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process, providing measurements of the appointed Liaison officer for his prescribed kit.

Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.

Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.

Assistance upon arrival/departure.

Official Briefing/Debriefing.

Hotel accommodation in Rawalpindi/Islamabad, Chilas and Skardu.

All meals during trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.

Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C. and 50 kg per person on return from BC.

Road transfers between airport/hotel and within city as per itinerary.

Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen and toilet tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.

Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.

Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s).

Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).

Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.

Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges.

Reconfirmation of air tickets.

Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team).

Not Included:

International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.

Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to the kick off point.

Liaison Officer kit and equipment, allowances, travel, hotels, meals and insurance and his personal expenses of any kind.

High altitude porters/any crew above BC.

Tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen.

Medications, ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.

Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.

Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions.

Climbing Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid to the Government of Pakistan.

Clearing agent charges.

Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet.

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